July 29, 2026
At Château d'Issan, a 1855 Grand Cru Classé in Margaux, harvest marks the passing of the baton. After several months of work in the vineyard, the grapes arrive at the cellar, where a new and equally decisive stage begins. As Cellar Master, Clément Di Costanzo is committed to revealing the full potential of each vintage, guided by one conviction: great wine is not made—it is nurtured.
1. When the grapes arrive at the cellar, what is your first priority in revealing the full potential of the vintage?
"Harvest is always a very special moment for me. At that point, the vineyard teams hand over the result of several months of work, and it becomes our responsibility to carry their efforts forward without ever betraying what nature has given us.
My first objective is simple: to keep only the finest berries. The quality of a great wine begins there. From that moment on, everything is about observation. We taste the grapes, assess their ripeness, their balance and their potential. Each vineyard plot is vinified separately because every one of them has its own story to tell.
Ultimately, our job is to guide the grapes rather than transform them. We strive to intervene as little as possible so that the terroir of Issan can express itself with elegance and precision. The elegance of our wines is born from this balance between technical precision and respect for the fruit."
2. At what moment do you feel a vintage truly begins?
"Without hesitation, during the blending process. It is a moment I look forward to every year. Until then, each plot tells its own story. Then, little by little, they come together, and the future wines of Château d'Issan begin to reveal their personality.
It is an exercise in extraordinary precision, where just a few percentage points can change everything. It is also a deeply collaborative moment, shared with Emmanuel Cruse, owner of Château d'Issan; Éric Pellon, Technical Director; Olivier Chalaud, Vineyard Manager; Edgard Kappelhoff-Lançon, Commercial Director; and, of course, Éric Boissenot, the estate's consulting oenologist for more than thirty years. Together, we seek the perfect balance to faithfully express the terroir of Margaux while respecting the unique character of each vintage.
Every year, we start again from scratch. Weather conditions change, the grapes evolve differently, and we must adapt without ever losing the identity of Issan. That constant challenge is what fascinates me: working with a new harvest, making the right decisions, and revealing the very best of what nature has given us."
3. What is the biggest misconception about your profession? What do people rarely realize about your work?
"I think visitors rarely imagine just how carefully every decision is considered. Nothing is left to chance. Every choice is made only after observing, tasting and analysing how the wines are evolving.
During fermentation, we taste each individual plot almost every day. Those tastings guide every decision we make: the intensity of pump-overs, extraction levels, and even the moment when it is time to ease off. The smallest decision can influence the final balance of the wine. Everything is designed to reveal the best of each vintage and achieve the perfect harmony between structure, finesse and elegance that defines the wines of Issan.
This profession requires constant vigilance. Behind every bottle of Château d'Issan lie months of collective effort devoted to bringing out the very best that the vineyard has to offer.
When a bottle is opened, above all I hope it brings pleasure. But if those who taste it can also sense the patience, precision and dedication of the women and men who crafted it, then I feel we have accomplished our mission."
MENU
