September 08, 2026
Ingredients (for 4 people):
- 12 small ceps (about 200g/7oz)
- 25g (1oz) mixed finely chopped garlic and parsley
- 1 carrot
- 200g (7oz) shallots
- 250g (9oz) unsalted butter
- 4 raw duck legs
- 500ml (18fl oz) veal stock
- 2 litres (31/2 pints) red wine
- 1 bouquet garni (thyme, parsley and a bay leaf tied
with a piece of string)
- 5 large potatoes
- 1 bay leaf
- coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preparation time: 4 hours
Cooking time: 3 hours
According to Henry IV of France, ceps, known as porcini mushrooms in Italy, were savoured by lords beyond Gascony, whose fertile lands were exceptionally well endowed with them. Choose a
dozen cep mushrooms, preferably young, firm and plump ones as they will have the most taste. Chop them and sprinkle them with chopped garlic and parsley to add later. ‘Parmentier’ is the word used in French cuisine to describe a savoury dish where potato plays an important part.
For the duck:
Heat the oven to 160°C (325°F/Gas mark 3). Finely dice the carrot and the shallots, then sweat them in a little of the butter in a flameproof cooking pot – ideally a cast-iron one, which will distribute the heat more evenly. Add the duck legs and sear. Pour in the veal stock then the red wine – to moisten the meat in the best possible way – and add the bouquet garni. Cover the pot, transfer to the oven and – as time spent cooking is never time wasted – leave it to simmer for 2–3 hours. Once the meat is falling off the bone, remove the duck legs and chop the meat. Return the chopped duck to the pot, add the reserved mushroom mixture and reduce over a low heat. Adjust the seasoning when the sauce has reached a coating consistency.
For the mashed potatoes:
Creamy mashed potato is full of childhood memories, reminding us of the simple acts of love of our parents and grandparents. To make the mash for this duck dish, peel and cook the potatoes in boiling water, with the bay leaf added for flavour, before draining and mashing them with the remaining butter. Season with salt and
pepper. Dry the mashed potato in a saucepan to make it elastic.
To serve:
To serve, you will need four 7cm- (23/4in) diameter stainless-steel rings. Put some of the duck mixture into each ring then top with the mash (once you’ve removed the rings, these individual parmentiers will look like mini cheesecakes!). It takes a few minutes to warm up the individual parmentiers. Remove the rings, transfer to individual
serving plates and carefully pour some of the wine sauce (strained if necessary) around each parmentier.
Wine-food match:
We recommend that you pair this dish with a
CHÂTEAU D’ISSAN 2005.